♦ Dr. Nguyen Thi Thanh Hoa

thuongThe present-day attire of Hanoians is highly diverse, representing a harmonious blend of modernity and tradition. Women frequently opt for dresses or women’s tailored trousers, while men commonly wear suits, shirts, and men’s tailored trousers. Nevertheless, the traditional áo dài remains the preferred choice for ceremonial occasions, Lunar New Year celebrations, and significant events, epitomizing gracefulness and elegance. In general, clothing choices of contemporary Hanoians prioritize sophistication, politeness, and contextual appropriateness, simultaneously incorporating international fashion trends, while preserving the intrinsic cultural essence of Thăng Long (the former name of Hanoi).

Context
thuongIn the current era, marked by significant economic development and ongoing cultural exchange, the aesthetic awareness of Hanoians has become increasingly refined, resulting in a more varied and vibrant landscape of urban dress. While receptive to influences from diverse cultures, the residents of Tràng An (the former name of Hanoi) adeptly modify them to align with their local lifestyles, culture, and customs. Consequently, local attire tends to avoid flamboyance and carelessness, instead consistently projecting an image of subtlety, neatness, and propriety in public spaces. For example, it is uncommon for Hanoians to wear casual home clothing outdoors. Elderly individuals stepping out to the neighborhood entrance for tea are neatly dressed; women select tidy outfits for market visits; and office or workplace settings feature uniforms or attire that is respectful, modest, yet elegantly refined. As inhabitants of the Kinh kỳ (the former imperial capital and a long-standing political and cultural center), Hanoians live among a wide range of social groups, including politicians, merchants, artists, and intellectuals, all with cultivated aesthetic discernment.  As a city that has long served as a site of cultural “convergence, crystallization, and dissemmination” over thousands of years, Hanoi has shaped a civic consciousness in which its citizens are mindful of upholding thuần phong mỹ tục (traditional moral and cultural norms), setting a standard for other regions. Accordingly, Hanoians generally avoid attire that is excessively conspicuous, garish in color, or extreme in design. It is uncommon to see women in tight leggings or exceedingly short skirts, or men adopting aggressively styled outfits or extensively tattooed appearances in public settings.

Characteristics of Hanoian attire

Materials

thuongHanoians tend to favor natural fabrics such as silk (delicate and soft) and linen (cool and absorbent), which impart a sense of lightness and comfort. Seasonal considerations also shape material choices: linen and cotton are preferred in summer, while wool, khaki, light woolens, windbreakers, and lightly padded jackets are chosen for winter. Regardless of material, garments are typically selected for their fluid drape to ensure softness, avoiding excessive gloss in order to enhance a sense of gentle elegance. For the modernized áo dài, women often employ materials like silk, brocade, chiffon, or velvet, frequently combined with modern patterns or meticulous hand embroidery, thereby reflecting a harmonious blend of traditional and modern elements. The materials used in Hanoian attire thus reflect both global trends and a sustained commitment to elegance, comfort, and the cultural identity of Thăng Long.

Colors and patterns

thuongA majority of Hanoians favor neutral, subdued hues such as beige, white, gray, and black for their versatility and suitability for professional settings or urban leisure, conveying modesty and propriety. Clothing designs are often monochromatic, adorned with subtle patterns like petite florals, brocade designs, or folk elements. For the áo dài, traditional symbols such as lotus flowers, peach blossoms, bronze drums, clouds, bamboo, and cranes are commonly employed, serving as visual markers of cultural heritage and identity.

Designs

thuongIn contemporary wear, women frequently choose shirts, T-shirts, one-piece dresses, skirts, wide-leg trousers, and jeans, while men commonly wear shirts, T-shirts, khaki trousers, tailored trousers, or jeans. For events with traditional significance, such as festivals and ceremonial events, traditional garments such as the áo dài, as well as stylized versions of the áo tứ thân (four-panel dress) or áo yếm (bodice), remain popular. Men may also opt for modernized áo dài, áo the (long silk gauze tunic), and khăn xếp (traditional turbans), evoking a sense of nostalgia. Attire is complemented by accessories, including handbags, footwear, scarves, necklaces, and bracelets, which contribute to an overall impression of elegance and sophistication. The cultural dimension of Hanoian attire is evident in selections appropriate to specific contexts (work, leisure, social gatherings), suitability for the wearer’s age, and reflection of the individual’s aesthetic awareness and personal style.

Fashion trends among Hanoians

thuongWhile the traditional áo dài and its stylized variants remain an enduring symbol of Vietnamese women, Hanoians have introduced distinctive innovations through variations in fabric (silk, linen, brocade), design (puffed sleeves, bateau necklines, collarless styles), and diverse patterns. Casual wear is often made from silk, satin, or đũi (tussah silk), featuring loose, comfortable cuts that nevertheless maintain a sense of sophistication. Overall, contemporary Hanoi fashion is characterized by elegance, modesty, and grace, while also meeting the practical demands of a fast-paced urban lifestyle.   

thuongIn summary, although there are no formal regulations governing dress for specific social groups, successive generations of Hanoians have consistently demonstrated a strong awareness of choosing attire appropriate to context and in harmony with traditional moral and cultural norms. Contemporary Hanoian attire is distinguished by its elegance, sophistication, and modernity, while preserving a traditional foundation. It represents a harmonious integration of international fashion trends with the gentle, understated beauty intrinsic to Tràng An culture. Through their preference for moderation over ostentation and for self-discipline in public presentation, Hanoians express not only personal dignity but also respect for the wider community.\

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References

1. Tran, Q. Đ. (2024). A millennium of Vietnamese attire (Ngan nam ao mu). Nha Nam Publishing House.
2. Đoan, T. T. (2010). Thang Long - Hanoi attire (Trang phục Thang Long - Hà Nội). Hanoi Publishing.